REGIONAL INFORMATION

The rich diversity in the landscape is one of the lasting impressions of a visit to Burgundy. This is perhaps best illustrated in the Puisaye region with its eastern boundary defined by the mighty La Loire. Towns like Nevers, St Fargeau and La Charité sur Loire are important sites within this sub-region steeped in history and culture.

Yes, the countryside is beautiful with streams and rivers interweaving across the landscape, but it is the soil of the area that provides the golden thread to its history. The rich clay found in the region is the primary source for a pottery industry that stretches back over centuries. Ochre was mined locally and exported as far away as Russia for architectural design features, ceramics, and cosmetics. But locally, the clay formed the basis of an earthenware pottery industry that adorned farmhouse kitchens across the Burgundy region and beyond. The industry has had its ups and downs, but it was perhaps the arrival of sculptor Jean Carriès in 1888 who breathed new life into La Puisaye. He was obsessed with patina in his pottery. He was strongly drawn to the shapes and glazes of Japanese pottery, examples of which were beginning to emerge in France. Linked to the Symbolist movement, he had a flair for the grotesque. There is no question that his resulting ceramic works not only caused a sensation in their day but also revitalized the art of stoneware pottery.

The Stoneware Museum in Saint-Amand-en-Puisaye, located in a Renaissance château is well worth a visit; it tells the story of pottery in Puisaye, through superb collections of utilitarian and decorative stoneware pieces from the Carriès school of sculpting. Also try to take in the Espace Jacques-Jeanneney, a place for ceramicists to meet and exchange information, hosts exhibitions and courses.

Some of you may be familiar with the name St Fargeau, this small Burgundian town is located close to the site of the Guédelon castle project (see our ‘Must See’ feature in this newsletter), it is also home to one of the largest son et lumière spectaculars in Europe, held at the Château de Saint-Fargeau. It is an amazing experience and a definite must for all the family with ghosts and the souls of ancient marauders emerging from the walls of this impressive rose brick château. Over 600 actors participate in this spectacle that takes place Friday and Saturday evenings in July and August, so make sure it’s on your list of things to see for your visit next summer.

Just chill

Sometimes, all you want to do is soak up the sun and local ambience, getting a feel for local culture, the normal way of life of the French and just chilling and having a beer. Well, Toucy, a small village to the northeast of St Fargeau on the D965, is a good place to start. Here the local street market has been voted the Burgundy’s prettiest marketplace.

The morning street markets are a tradition and reflective of both the history of the region and the French way of living.

Flipping the activity, a visit to the Parc Boutissaint is a great open-air experience with its deer, wild boar and European buffalo roaming in their natural habitat. There are lots of opportunities for those who like walking and cycling with over 1000 kms of marked trails with varying levels of difficulty setting the challenge. And dare we say it, it is home to one of the best golf courses in Burgundy, Roncemay is to be found in the north of the area near Aillant-sur-Tholon (Editor: Website in French only).

Hot air balloon flights, horse riding, treetop adventure courses, paintball, kayaking, the list goes on and they are all available in the local area, ensuring that there is absolutely no chance that you or the kids will get bored.
It would be remiss not to mention one of Puisaye’s literary luminaries. Colette wrote of her memories of living in the region. Celebrated throughout the area, her books retrace her childhood in Saint-Sauveur en Puisaye. Her birthplace is now a museum and is a fascinating insight into a time long since gone, recreating her life and work, the museum has a shop where you can relax and buy some of her books, and it has a pleasing view of the parkland fronting onto the château.

Don’t forget the camera!

Back to sightseeing, the city of Nevers, which sits on the Loire is renowned for its art and history, as well as having an astonishingly rich and diverse heritage.

Many fine examples of religious architecture provide lots of photo opportunities along the blue line trail, which leads you on your tour around the town.

Nevers is also internationally renowned as the burial place of Saint Bernadette, the young peasant girl from Lourdes who witnessed the Apparitions of the Virgin Mary. Even today, thousands of pilgrims come each year to meditate.

Like much of the region, Nevers is steeped in state and church. On the top of the "Butte" stands the Duke's Palace, considered to be one of the first châteaux in the Loire Valley. And nearby, make sure you also take in the Baroque façades of the Chapelle St. Marie (Chapel of St. Mary) and the church of Saint Pierre.

Most importantly, Nevers is a good place to round off your busy day with a meal and glass of that amber nectar we keep referring to!