REGION FEATURED

In last year summer’s edition, we took a trip to the Morvan nature park with its magnificent unspoilt topography…Today we turn eastwards to focus on the lesser-known area of the Couchois, which lies between the Regional Nature Park and the famous wine town of Beaune.
Although a well-kept secret, there’s no trade-off here in beautiful scenery; rolling hills and vineyards define the well-kept landscape, with views only interrupted by pretty villages, forests, and the occasional small herd of Charolais grazing on the slopes of a meandering river valley.
On a perfect sunny day, the best place to start is the highest point in the area. Standing nearly 600 metres above sea level, Mont Rome can be found rising above the village of Saint-Sernin-du-Plain, a 15-minute drive from our featured location of Couches (Ed: More about Couches in our article LOCAL FLAVOUR).
Now don’t be intimidated by its height, the actual trek to its peak is a steady ramble up its slopes, rising 166 metres above the local landscape. More importantly, it’s well worth it. From here the panoramic views are spectacular and a photographer’s dream.
Halfway up its slope, you’ll find the Theatre David, an impressive semi-circular, open-air theatre. For a week at the end of July, this theatre is the atmospheric setting for a series of open-air concerts at dusk. The event ‘Les Nuits du Mont Rome’ features a mixed repertoire of classical music, opera, and jazz, all performed against the backdrop of the river valley below.
As you continue your trek to the top of Mont Rome, the views become breathtaking. At its highest point, they are quite phenomenal: 360 degrees visibility far into the Morvan park, and on a crystal-clear day, you can even see the peak of Mont Blanc in the Alps, almost 300 km away!
Stating the obvious, this is a perfect spot for a picnic, providing that is, you remembered to buy your ‘baguette et fromage’ before you set out!
Taking a slightly different route down from the top you descend into the village Saint-Sernin-du-Plain, an ideal spot to sample some of the local wines at the Cave de Mazenay. The wines from the local area have their own quality accreditation: the ‘Appellation Regionale Couchois’. Don’t be surprised to see local residents arriving with their containers (known as bidons), which they fill from the large wooden wine casks at the winery. The wines (red and white) are recognised for their quality at a reasonable price and are gaining an ever-increasing regional and national prominence.
If you are lucky to be in the village at the right time, ‘La Ronde du Couchois’ is a terrific way to discover the wines of this region. You can buy a wine glass for €5 and then use it to visit all the participating wineries and sample their wines. Four villages take part: Couches, Dracy-lès-Couches, Saint-Maurice-lès-Couches and St. Sernain du Plain. In 2022, the festival is planned for 6th and 7th August.
And so, with a few boxes of wine safely tucked away in the boot of the car, it’s time to return to Couches. The history of this medieval village goes back in time to the days when the Romans fought the Gauls. The name ‘Couches’ comes from ‘soleil couchant,’ the setting sun that could be seen from the Roman road, which still exists today and is part of many hiking trails throughout the area.
Talking of hiking, there are numerous historic sites to visit including the Château Montpatey and Château Dracy-lès-Couches. The Château de Couches is perhaps the most famous – it is a former fortress of the Dukes of Burgundy dating back to the 11th century. With a history stretching this far back the château has understandably undergone many changes but its defensive character remains intact. Today, it is home to all kinds of activities, including the Les Médiévales. Here you can spin wool in a medieval setting, make knives and swords, carve stone, and take part in competitions as a knight on horseback. It’s a wonderful place to take the kids and keep them occupied.
Talking of which, healthy exercise never did anyone any harm (Ed: Easy for you to say!) The Couchois is a great place to go walking, and to assist we have chosen to feature three short treks around Couches. Pleasant walks that lead you through vineyards and forests, along the banks of rippling brooks to historical sites, punctuated along the way with some great views, so take a camera.
Balcons de Dracy 8,8 km (just over 5 miles)
This walk starts at the Mairie (town hall) in Dracy-lès-Couches. For a large part, it follows the ‘Chemin des Romains’ the ancient Roman route running through the Couchois region. On this mini trek you take in views over the vineyards, you can see the Mont Rome with its impressive rock formations, and then you descend via a beautiful forest path back into Dracy.
Les moulins St. Maurice 4,5 km (just under 3 miles and relatively easy)
This short walk partly follows the ‘La Petite Vielle’ stream. On this gentle hike, you’ll come across the remains of three watermills. You might also discover an old lock, sometimes a ruin and for those with a keen eye, you might recognise the old water basins. This is a really pleasant hike with a good chance of spotting kingfishers, so make sure you have the lens hood off the camera, or you’ll miss the picture of a lifetime.
Les Montagnes 7,2 km (just over 4 miles but challenging)
This is a real hike that starts from the centre of Couches. It begins with a steep climb that brings you up to 434 meters. Looking back, you'll see the village of Couches nestled among surrounding vineyards. The trail leads on to the hilltop village of Eguilly. As you start the descent from Eguilly, the imposing castle of Couches lies at your feet.
After all this walking it’s time to relax and have a beer or glass of wine, and Couches is a good place to have it. Take a look at our section entitled LOCAL FLAVOUR in this edition of the newsletter.