REGION FEATURED

It would be fair to say that the Côte Chalonnaise is dwarfed in stature by its big sister the Côte de Beaune, but that doesn’t take away from it the flagship status it holds for its wines (more of that a little later) and its scenery, architecture and heritage!
The area starts just south of the town of Chagny and extends southwards to Montagny-lès-Buxy. It also includes the Couchois to the west, which was the focus of one of our visits last year. In this region, Burgundy wine is essentially white (55%) and five appellations stand out: Bouzeron, Rully, Mercurey, Givry and Montagny.

Despite its lack of notoriety, the region is an ideal base for nature, wine and culture lovers. Easily accessible from the motorway network, it is only 15 minutes from the autoroute exits at Chalon sur Saône, Beaune or Tournus.
The region takes its name from Chalon sur Saône. This is the economic and cultural centre of the area. The river Saône, which has been used for freight for several centuries, has enabled the town to build its economic status and regional importance. Still as vibrant as it was in the Age of Enlightenment (late 17th and the 18th centuries) or for the historians among you, between the Glorious Revolution in 1688 and the French Revolution of 1789., Chalon is known for its numerous festivals held throughout the year including an impressive carnival in March and the popular street festival ‘Chalon dans la rue’ in July, There’s a big Sunday market held in the shadow of St Vincent cathedral and if you do go, make sure you pop into the church to see the only conserved bishop's cloister in Burgundy. The north wing is a contemporary renovation of a gallery that disappeared in the 19th century.
The town is also famous for being the home of photography and it was in 1826 that French scientist Joseph Nicéphore Niépce took the first photograph, titled ‘View from the Window at Le Gras’. It is not surprising therefore that the museum in the town is dedicated to this and other early photographic work and is well worth a visit. You’ll find it at 28 Quai des Messageries, overlooking the river.
As you wander around the Chalon, you will come across the Isle St Laurent. Now, this is a location you will not want to miss around lunchtime. There are ten restaurants on this street representing cuisine from all corners of the world and a good meal is guaranteed no matter what your preference.

However, the hustle and bustle of an urban location may not be your cup of tea! So, let’s move up a gear and sit astride a bike to escape the town along the Voie Verte that links Chalon sur Saône to Mâcon to the south, and Buxy and Givry to the west.
What could be better than a cruise along safe cycle paths passing many great tourist sites such as the Renaissance château of Cormatin with its magnificent French gardens; Saint-Gengoux-le-National, a remarkable medieval town with its popular weekly market (Thursday mornings), and Rully with its fortified château built on a mound overlooking the surrounding area. (Ed: I know this place and its history! It has belonged to the same family since the 12th century).

If that all sounds a little too relaxed, then there’s also lots of hiking to be had. Trails abound in the region, meandering between vineyards and limestone plateaux, especially around Moroges, Saint-Vallerin, Culles-les-Roches, Montagny-lès-Buxy and Mercurey, to name but a few. This is an opportunity to discover the hilly and varied landscapes of the region. And there’s a special ‘kodak moment’ posing atop one of these high points looking eastwards towards Mont-Blanc a few hundred kilometres away. Now that’s a photo opportunity not to be missed.

For those who like to immerse themselves in history, the region is a treasure trove of important sites. Among the most remarkable is the Château de Germolles in Mellecey, where visitors can admire what is, without doubt, the best-preserved residence of the Dukes of Burgundy, or the village of Buxy with its cobbled streets that transport you back to days gone by. Spin the clock back even further and the region reveals so much more of its heritage. Perhaps the best example is St Boil where the Cistercian movement grew rapidly, building over 500 houses during the early 13th century. Travel back even further and you’ll find traces of Gallo-Roman influence scattered across the whole region. After all, history and Burgundy go hand-in-hand and in truth, there’s probably too much of it to see in just one visit!

Now, as our regular readers know, we always take a little trip into wines country and, as we have already hinted, 0the Côte Chalonnaise is home to some very fine white wines and some really good ruby reds. With its contrasting landscapes, you’ll not only discover some well-known appellations made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Alligoté, you will also come across a pretty important sparkling white (Cremant de Bourgogne) that owes its origins to a young viticulteur from the Champagne region who visited vineyards in Rully and Mercurey, and surprise, surprise, a delicate fizzy white was born. This was two hundred years ago, but it was not until 1975 that the crémant was awarded its AOC accreditation and its popularity spread far beyond the region.